Sam Kaplan for The New York Times; Food stylist: Suzanne Lenzer. Prop stylist: Theo Vamvounakis.
Even the best foods can become tiresome, which is the only reason you would ever do anything with oysters other than opening and swallowing them. For something almost as primitive, the people of western France, where some of the world's best oysters are produced, perfected the idea of teaming them with sausage.
I was introduced to this combination in Brittany years ago. It happened before dinner, as an appetizer, and came just a few hours after a lunch that consisted of four dozen of the region's finest.
Oysters go down easy, so I didn't see this as a problem. If I was puzzled by this incongruous-looking duo, that lasted only until I started eating. The combination of crisp, hot, spicy sausage and cold, creamy oysters may have been unpredictable, but it was as sensible as waffles and ice cream.
It's not exactly a recipe — grill some sausage, open some oysters, slice some lemons, serve — but it did make me think of other beloved combinations of meat and seafood. Our contribution to this world — a filet mignon with a lobster — is pathetic: the foods don't play well together, and I suspect that the dish was originally a conceit born of an urban desire to showcase abundance and wealth.
Not so the more traditional versions. If you steam mussels with chorizo — or any other sausage — all you're doing is adding a big shot of flavor for very little effort. Similarly, if you steam clams with prosciutto — or some other cured meat; you get the idea — you're doing pretty much the same. (I cook both of these differently than I did years ago, using far less added liquid — sometimes none — than most classic steamed mussels or clams recipes, relying on the juices that the mollusks themselves exude.)
Then there's my liberal interpretation of the classic Portuguese pork with clams (usually called รก alentejana, because it's from Alentejo), a magnificent expression of surf and turf, with the brininess of the clams almost overwhelmingly flavoring the pork. Over the years, for whatever reason, I've come to prefer this with chicken, which is more reliably tender (good pork is harder to find than good chicken) and marries with the clam juice equally well.
I've also occasionally done it in a kind of Chinese style, adding not only ginger to the garlic but also sesame oil and soy sauce. This, I believe, is the perfect adaptation (at least that's what I think this year), exploiting flavors and textures of both clam and chicken in ways that are just as good as the sausage and oysters, if not quite as primitive.
Recipes: Chicken With Clams | Oysters With Sausage | Mussels With Chorizo | Clams With Prosciutto
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