Howard Schatz is best known for dynamic photographs of athletes, like the one for Sam Anderson's cover story on the Oklahoma City Thunder in November. But he also has a more contemplative side. For the past 12 years, Schatz, along with his wife and agent, Beverly Ornstein, has been working on a series of portraits of female models and their mothers, some of which are featured in this week's Look. Schatz has photographed between 200 and 300 model-mother pairs, and he hopes to shoot 1,000, with the aim of publishing a book in a few years. I spoke with him about the project.
How did come up with the idea for this?
Many, many models have come through our studio over the years, for all kinds of castings — editorial and advertising. And they come from all lands: Chile, China, Senegal, Sweden, Argentina and Austria, just everywhere. Many of them are young kids, they're in their teens or 20s. I'd ask them: How did you get here? Who helped you set up? Where did you find your apartment? And they talked about how their mothers helped them. Their mothers would come every few months or every year to visit them and see if they were O.K. They'd still talk to their mothers every night, even though their mother might be in Siberia. That interested me, so I asked a few of the models, "When your mother comes to New York, why don't we do a portrait?"
What did you notice during the photo sessions?
If the models had been working for a year or more, you put a camera in front of them, and their eyes squint, and their head turns, and they become a little alluring. Some models would even direct their mothers — "Tilt your chin down." I'd then ask them not to pose like a sexy fashion model but to pose as their mother's daughter. I'd ask both mother and daughter to look at the camera as if they were listening to each other, as if they were having a long distance conversation and the other one is speaking. I'd try to get a face that wasn't designed to affect the photograph, that wasn't telling the camera what it's supposed to see.
What about the relationships between the pairs? What did you see there?
Their emotional relationship informed their physical relationship during the photo session. Some of the mother-daughter pairs could sit close to each other, hug each other, they couldn't keep their hands off each other from affection and warmth and being happy to be next to each other. Others were a little tentative, and there was no affection. I'd ask them to sit near each other, but they'd shift a little to get an inch away. Sometimes the mother would try to be her daughter's big sister. She'd try to live through her daughter's career, emulating their daughter, dressing like their daughter, posing like their daughter. I found that was very interesting.
This post has been revised to reflect the following correction:
Correction: February 22, 2013
An earlier version of this post misspelled the name of a country native to models who were photographed by Howard Schatz. It is Chile, not Chili.
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