Sam Kaplan for The New York Times; Food stylist: Suzanne Lenzer.
On St. Patrick's Day you have a better shot at finding green beer than green cabbage, because most cabbage is served boiled to within a clover's-width of its life, turning from lovely green to what you'd have to call gray. It's easy to overlook mushy and soggy cabbage when it's served next to a giant hunk of corned beef and on the tail end of a couple (or five) of those beers, but cabbage deserves better. Here are a dozen ways to cook the vegetable so that it retains its vibrancy, flavor, all-important texture and appealing color.
One foolproof way to guarantee that you don't overcook cabbage: Don't cook it at all. While raw cabbage most often suffers the fate of being drowned in mayonnaise (and sugar), there are tastier and less heavy-handed ways to go than a lump of coleslaw.
The other three methods here do apply heat, ranging from the hot blast of the wok to the gentleness of a braise to a quick bath in a bubbling broth. Taste often for doneness; the key is to let the cabbage soften and lose its raw edge while still retaining some of its crunch.
I've made suggestions for which type of cabbage to use in which recipes, but you should feel free to substitute. No matter what kind of cabbage you buy, look for tightly packed heads; they should feel heavy for their size and not have any loose or yellowing leaves.
To shred cabbage, cut the head in quarters, slice out the hard white core and cut crosswise into thin strips (to shred Napa cabbage, just cut the whole thing crosswise). Whatever method you use to shred cabbage for coleslaw (maybe you have one of those old-fashioned wooden graters) will work here. None of these need corned beef. Most are good with beer, even if it isn't green.
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