Each dinner service at Red Rooster, on Lenox Avenue and 125th Street, and Ginny's Supper Club, its subterranean lounge, requires dozens more staff members than an N.F.L. roster. That's 10 servers, 10 server's assistants, 6 runners, 2 stockers, 2 baristas, 1 lead host, 2 more hostesses ("one greeter, one seater"), 6 bartenders, 2 bar backs, 3 floor managers, 1 beverage manager, 1 line cook for each of the 4 stations (grill, sauté, fry and garde manger) in each kitchen, 2 expediters, 10 prep cooks, 6 dishwashers, 3 porters, 1 general manager and an assistant general manager. There are 2 reservationists, 2 event planners, 4 overnight cleaners and 3 receivers to check in deliveries. Oh, yeah, they have a chef too: Marcus Samuelsson, back there with the scarf.
All told, full-service restaurants employ about 135,000 New Yorkers, or more than 1 in every 100 who live here. The restaurants can pay tip-earning employees $5 an hour, below minimum wage, but customers pay the rest — and then some. Philip Montante, the Rooster's G.M., estimates (perhaps optimistically) that the two restaurants, where entrees range from $16 to $34, serve dinner to about 650 customers on a busy night, which can earn a waiter around $250. Many of us trust these massive machines with dates, birthdays and anniversaries. But it takes a lot of hands to maintain the illusion that you are, indeed, special.
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