In the go-go '80s, "tartare" pretty much meant a pile of raw, well-seasoned chopped beef topped with a raw egg yolk. It was seen as food for the carnivorous power-lunch crowd — tartare even had a cameo as a status symbol in "Wall Street" — and for old-fashioned people who ate at old-fashioned restaurants.
I'm not sure what the first nonbeef tartare was, but I do remember getting a chuckle when my friend and co-author Jean-Georges Vongerichten introduced me to beet tartare sometime around 1990. In any case, tuna tartare has far surpassed beef in popularity, lamb tartare is fashionable and carrot tartare is expensive. In short, the field is wide open, and it's time for home cooks to forge ahead.
It couldn't be simpler; if you can chop or use a food processor, you can make tartare. The method is mostly an exercise in buying and tasting: first you find meat, fish or vegetables you'd want to eat raw (quality is essential, of course), and then you find combinations of garnishes that work. A few natural combinations to get you started: salmon with egg, chives, anchovies and capers; scallops with zucchini, miso and soy sauce; tuna with mustard and soy.
Bear this in mind: Despite its fancy reputation, tartare is a rustic dish at heart (cavemen probably ate some version of it), so some rough edges might be just the thing.
Instructions: In a large bowl, combine about 1 pound of fresh meat, seafood or vegetables (chopped well but not minced) with 2 tablespoons of binder (these can be combined; egg yolk and mustard, for example) and 4 tablespoons of garnishes (mix at will). If the tartare seems dry, add extra binder or a tablespoon or two of olive (or other) oil.
Binders: Egg yolk; mustard; crème fraîche; mayonnaise; tahini; harissa; hoisin; miso and soy sauce; lime juice and olive oil; lemon juice and olive oil
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