By Brandon Cruz
Lorna Sass's Pressure-Cooker Meatballs: Cookbook author and pressure-cooking expert Lorna Sass shows Mark Bittman how to make lamb meatballs with a Greek-inspired tomato sauce in under five minutes.
Not long ago, I found a piece of what I assumed was beef in the freezer. My choices were to cook it or throw it out, and because time was short — defrosting was not an option — the pressure cooker seemed the right option.
Thus began another pressure-cooker experiment. I threw the meat in, and added onion, carrots, garlic, water, cinnamon, star anise, a chile, Sichuan peppercorns, soy sauce, honey — things I knew would yield a dark, spicy sauce.
I brought the pressure up and cooked it for 40 minutes. Upon opening the pot, I saw that I'd made short ribs — how nice! I boiled off a bit of the extra liquid, and in less than an hour had produced something that normally would have taken four hours, not to mention defrosting time.
The next obvious step was to call the cookbook author Lorna Sass, a pressure-cooker maven who has always been a step or two ahead of her time. (Her "Recipes From an Ecological Kitchen," published 20-plus years ago, was among the first mainstream vegan cookbooks, and it has not been bettered. Sadly, it's out of print.) I needed a lesson.
As Sass explained to me, by increasing pressure, these pots raise cooking temperatures and thereby speed up the time a dish requires. And they're safer than they once were. (They can be more expensive too. The pricey ones are gorgeous, but the less-expensive ones still work well.) There should be no fear in using one: The locking systems are foolproof, and the safety systems are redundant — you will not spew beef stew all over your ceiling.
Sass and I spent an afternoon together in her kitchen. I know a little bit about pressure-cooking — for example, that beans don't get soaked, take around 30 minutes to cook and turn out better than they do by other methods — but there were surprises. The 15-minute risotto, for instance, that Lorna has been bragging to me about for years is nothing short of incredible.
And there were many fine points worth learning, all of which you'll pick up through cooking these recipes. (Needless to say, Sass's books about pressure-cooking contain many more.) My recommendation is this: Start using a pressure cooker for beans and long-cooking braises, in order to save time. You'll quickly see that its strengths can be exploited in cooking almost any dish that contains liquid. And some of those discoveries will happen, happily, by accident.
Related Recipes: Lamb Meatballs in Greek-Inspired Tomato Sauce | Porcini Risotto With Peas | Short Ribs in Gingered Plum Sauce | Black Bean Soup With Avocado Salsa
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