The 6th Floor Blog: Out Near the National Park Where I Learned to Drink

Written By Unknown on Jumat, 05 April 2013 | 18.37

This weekend's Food & Drink Issue features The Times's foreign correspondents on the most interesting bars they've been to outside the United States. Ellen Barry, Moscow bureau chief, counters with this watering hole in Montana.


Just outside the east entrance to Glacier National Park, on a stretch of highway that crosses the Blackfeet Indian reservation, there is a bar called Kip's Beer Garden. If that sounds quaint, you heard it wrong. At the point where the park meets the reservation, you bid farewell to Bavarian-style lodges and crackling fireplaces and discover that there are bars where people carry switchblades. Kip's is one such bar; twice a month, when subsidy checks came into the reservation, the place was infused with the kind of gasket-blowing good humor that could easily slip over the line into aggravated assault.

One summer during college, I worked as a chambermaid at a nearby hotel, and I made $3.45 an hour. There were a lot of college girls working at the same hotel, but if they had any degree of aptitude they had talked their way into jobs as waitresses. The chambermaids were bottom-feeders. In the evenings we watched the waitresses, full of health, their ponytails bouncing behind them, and made our way down to Kip's, whose sign featured a pliable-looking blonde in a Martini glass, emanating bubbles.

Inside were Christmas lights and a sign that said "barred for life"; among those listed, a recent visitor recalled, were "Martha Homegun" and "Smurf." I never ranked or, for that matter, left a mark of any kind; I was just another young person, to be replaced by an identical young person when the resort opened the following summer. But it is true that when I got back to college, I knew how to drink.


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